Titbits from Japan: Condensed Milk

For me, condensed milk - as long as I have known it - is something which goes in something like this:

But having been here in Tokyo for the past 7-going-on-8 months, I have hardly come into contact with this sweet sinfulness until... until my friend mentioned it to me in passing just last week. And pointed at tubes - yes you heard me, a TUBE - of condensed milk that I had actually always seen displayed near the strawberries, but never taken the time to actually look and see what they are. Turns out it's quite common for them to have strawberries with condensed milk! Sounded really yum! Up till now, I've always only dredged my strawberries in (mounds and mounds) of sugar but never thought of condensed milk. So yesterday I conceded defeat and bought a tube. Heh, did I mention that now the whole packet of strawberries and half the tube was already gone in the same day? =P

Mmmm. =)

Things to Do In Tokyo - Grand Sumo Tournament Jan 2010

This recent Sunday, Hoi Yin and I went to watch the Grand Sumo Tournament 2010! Fah was supposed to come along as well but she wasn't back from Thailand yet, so called Yang Chen instead and he joined us in the afternoon. Sumo is the national sport of Japan, with roots from even before Edo period even though it was popularised and nationalised then. I never knew much about Sumo so going to this event was certainly an eye-opener!

The Sumo Grand Tournament　(大相撲協会) happens 6 times a year - thrice in Tokyo and once each in Nagoya, Kyushu and Osaka. The tournament lasts 15 days and each sumo wrestler (rikishi　力士) gets to fight once each day. The one with the best record of wins at the end of the tournament wins the coveted Emperor's Cup. One of the most interesting things about Sumo (to me anyway) is the rigid hierarchical rankings. Who you fight is not based upon weight/height or any physical-related factors - rather it's upon your ranking. The sumo rankings (banzuke) is really complicated, with 4 divisions and 5 different rankings in just the top division. Basic rule for Sumo is basically to force your opponent out of the ring (dohyou 土俵) or force him to touch the ground with any part other than feet.

Even though the first fights started at about 9am, we went around 11am instead and it was SO empty, even though the tickets were almost sold-out. Lowest rankings start first, building up to a climax where the highest ranks fight last at 6pm. So most people only started coming at about 3pm, after the middle division fights started. The difference between the lowest ranks and the upper ranks was marked though - from size and fighting technique, to crowd response, to prepatory rituals and sponsors. The fight itself is actually less than a minute most times, but the prepatory and obligatory pre-fight rituals and cold war (shikiri 仕切り) often lasted up to the maximum 4 minutes that was allowed. This was only for the top ranks though - beginners had to start immediately. Okay less talk and some pictures:
(The arena at about 11.30am...)

(Sumos stay in traditional sumo stables - like a martial arts centre - and are paid a salary according to their divisional ranking. Only the top sumos often get sponsors - and one had like almost 20.)

(The coveted Emperor's Cup.)

(Speaking of which, guess who came unannounced? The Imperial Couple!)

(Several other prizes are given out each tournament as well like Best Techinique, Biggest Upset and Fighting Spirit.)

(Past winners get a huge potrait-picture up on the walls of the Kokugikan 国技館.)

(The Shinto Shrine roof that hangs above the sumo wrestling ring. Surprisingly, Sumo had alot of ties with Shinto religion, including actions like throwing salt to purify the ring, and stomping the left leg then right leg to drive away evils, or even just the Shinto-priest-like headgear of the match referees.)

(And the sold-out crowd at 4pm.)
(A sumo wrestler performing the Bow Dance after the last fight - it's a victory dance on behalf of all the winners of that day's bouts.)

Interesting fact about Sumo:
- The highest rank (yokozuna) is not one that is automatically granted upon winning tournaments. The Sumo federation and elders have to approve that the candidate is 1) consistently good enough, and 2) is character-worthy; because once a yokozuna, you never get demoted. Instead if you drop in standards, you are expected to retire.
- There are only 2 yokozunas now and both are Mongolians (Asashoryu and Hakuho).
- Besides Mongolians, there are Georgians, Russians and Bulgarians within the top division too.
- The referees are ranked as well, with the lowest rank ones going barefoot into the ring.
- The silk cloth wrapped around the sumo's waist and lower body is called mawashi.
- Being a sumo is more than a sport - it's a way of life. Staying at the Sumo Stables, doing chores and training according to rank, not being allowed to wear anything else but the traditional Japanese garb of yukatas, skipping breakfast, eating chanko-nabe for big lunch and sleeping afterwards...
- The sumo ring is considered sacred, and women are never allowed into it.

The last one is such bullshit honestly but it just totally reeks of Japanese-ness to me. The previous Osaka governor (a female) challenged this because she was to give out the trophies but the elders refused to budge, citing tradition. Sumo is declared as a 'modern Japanese sport' but everything in it is from centuries-old traditions. Interesting.

Tsukiji Market 築地

Last Tuesday (5 Jan), finally went to Tsukiji Market (築地)after being in Tokyo for 4 months. JF's brother was on visit here from Singapore, so we went in a big group of 8 people. 5 Singaporeans, 1 Taiwanese, 1 Finnish, 1 American. The famous tuna auction was closed to outsiders till 23rd Jan though, so we did not make the early wee hours trip (3-4am) but instead went at about 9am. Just in time to see the last vestiges of fresh fish market transactions and feel the dying-down bustle of the place.

Of course a trip there cannot be complete without a taste of the freshest sushi of course. The apparently best 2 sushi places were Dai Sushi and Sushi Daiwa, and both had loooooooooooong queues. Dai Sushi had the longest queue - it snaked in front of the shop, paused and picked up on the other end of the row of shops. So we went into Yamazaki which was a few doors down instead, because as much as yummy food is a must-go, queueing up is not quite the best way to spend one's time though, especially since we had 8 people.

In these 4 months, I've only beared to have sushi twice, and both times at kai-ten sushi of course (discount conveyor belt sushi). And I've always heard that Tsukiji is expensive but never realised how much more until I saw the menu which listed the cheapest sushi to be 400yen EACH and going up to 700yen each for the more exotic catches. Gritting my teeth against the shock of the prices, I just ordered whichever I felt I had to try (for novelty or for comparison) and mentally told myself that I'll definitely find a tiny village somewhere one day and enjoy cheap, fresh sushi then. Maybe 2 years later. So below are the pics of most that I tried:
(The sushi chef. There were just two elderly men manning the sushi counter - one was a nigiri (hand rolled sushi) specialist, whilst the other was the maki (sushi rolled in nori seaweed and topped with the seafood) specialist.)

(After you order, they place a fresh leaf on the ledge in front of you, together with pickled gingers and a pinch of freshly grated wasabi.)

(And the adventure begins! Started off with(L-R) Kanpachi (yellowtail stomach), Maguro (tuna) and Hirame (flounder). Before I came to Japan, my favourite sashimi was always hamachi (yellowtail) but now, it's Kanpachi. And I only just found out that day that it's actually the same fish, just that kanpachi was the fattier stomach part. <3 )

(That was followed by (L-R) salmon and toro (2nd grade tuna belly). Tuna has 3 grades - maguro (red colour, fillet part of tuna fish), toro (middle grade; fattier than maguro, hence pink rather than red) and Otoro (prized grade; fattiest tuna belly part, melts in your mouth). I also tried the Otoro (1st grade tuna belly) which was more expensive but I actually like the middle grade one (toro) best.)

(Amaebi - sweet shrimp. Not bad but I still think that prawns taste best when freshly cooked and in white wine for some reason. Yums.)

(And this is... abalone! Tried it for curiosity but will probably be the last time. Somewhat tasteless and still hard.)

I also tried uni (sea urchin) because I had tried it before at kaiten sushi and it wasn't all that good then. Kinda fishy and slimy. But this time was really good. I guess uni is one of those (like ika, prawns and maguro) where the freshness really makes alot of difference. This was smooth and not fishy at all - slid down the throat a real pleasure.

The whole experience was pricey yes, but really one of those that make you realise "oh, it can actually be sooo good". I still hope to do a roadtrip in Japan's less known areas and walk into a family-run sushi place with cheap but fresh sushi though!

Winter Sale Expo + Odaiba Muscle Park

Today, met up with Nobu since he had tickets to some trading company's winter sale at the Big Sight. Rachel came along too, and Nobu brought Reda - a Swiss exchange student who had exchange at NUS before too. The Big Sight is a very interesting looking building indeed - pretty much a convention centre that hosts several large fairs and events throughout the year - and it's located on the Odaiba island. As mentioned before, Odaiba is a man-made island that used to be a military base, but is now a recreational and entertainment area.

The expo sale covered quite a large area, and the sale ranged from 10% to 70%. Mostly bought food though - some konbu 'sweet' look-alike, another konbu 'sweet' with yuzu (lime) flavour and some St. Dalfour jams! Also got 2 packets of phad thai noodles so that I can make good on my promise to try cooking Phad Thai for a few of my friends.

Post-expo-sale, Nobu and Reda had initially wanted to go to the Oedo Onsen Monogatari at Odaiba, but facing some reluctance from R, so we ended up trying out the Muscle Park in the Decks Shopping Centre instead. I've been there once before to just take a look-see, and since then, I have always wanted to try it out once; and today I did!



(Ranking Park - One of the games that the 4 of us tried. This has 3 parts, each testing your balance, agility and coordination. I scored the lowest (apparently the equivalent of a 65-year old) and ended up having to treat Nobu to a Monster Burger dinner haha.)

They had games there that tested your agility, response, coordination and balance, and maybe even just plain luck. There was even a section - Sasuke Park - for the males the flex their masculinity (and arm strength). Basically it was pretty much like Ninja Warrior except that every single activity required only the muscles of the arms (not just biceps/triceps but the fingers, wrist and forearms too).

On the whole, this is really interesting concept for a themepark of sorts. If I ever set up a themepark, I would surely base it upon this: games that test your physical abilities, brain muscles, speed and yet are simple enough for everyone in the family or couples or groups of friends to do together? A winning concept I'd say.

Showa Memorial Park

Friday had no Bio Anthro class, so Isabel and I decided to bring our lunch bentos to the Showa Memorial Park to see the momiji (Japanese maple/fall colours) and enjoy an afternoon out in the park - and what a gorgeous place it was!

The park area used to be a military base and US airbase in the early 1920s till 1969, and the proposal was then put forth to have the area re-designed as a park project in commemoration of Showa Emperor's fifty-year-reign. The park is huge - 180 hectares in total - and there are so many things to do and see inside the park. Apparently we only covered a teeny part of the park too. But lunch was so enjoyable - sitting on a bench by the man-made lake, soothing sound of nature in the background and just nobody else's presence to disturb you - so different from Tokyo city centre areas even though the park is still within the Metropolitan Area. The transport cost was a tad expensive though, at 540yen 1-way (>.<) but some things are certainly spend-worthy.

Some pictures!

Mt Takao + Dinner

6 Nov - Waseda Athletics Festival = school holiday yay! Not quite sure what the festival was about, but Isabel and I decided (last night, on the spur of the moment) to go to Takaosan (Mt Takao) and check out the fall colours instead! Asked Yoshi along and off we went! ... Except, there wasn't quite any magnificent fall colours as expected, but just the few solitary trees that have turned red. Oh well.

We expected an easy-peasy walk, only to be greeted by a crowd of elderlies dressed comfortably in full hiking attire and heading for the cable car lift. Whilst we - dressed in our casual clothes and footwear - huffed and puffed our way up the steep paved pathway all the 3.8km way up to the summit.


(Yoshi and Isabel on the climb!; The picture can't seem to capture how steep the path was...)


(There were information boards like this marking the path all the way. 14 boards in total - disseminating trivia and titbits about the flora and fauna of Takaosan.)

(A view of Tokyo from one of the lower checkpoints. On a good day, apparently Mt Fuji and most of Tokyo and even Kanagawa prefecture is visible.)

(At the observatory point @ halfway. Clarity today was pretty good - the board says 85%!)

(From the observatory deck - a range of lush green mountains and valleys visible in the vicinity of Takaosan. Apparently there are hiking trails through to these other mountains.)

(One of the small shops along the way. Tried dango for the first time here - nice! This was a little different from the usual - so says Yoshi- because this one had miso glazing. So yummy though. Also had a pork bun - so remniscent of da bao in Singapore - and a black bean pancake in the shape of Tengu.)

(One of the many manyy statues of Tengu on Takaosan. Tengu is a sort of bad goblin/demon that has evolved through folklore to become a mountain spirit. The name comes from its similar Chinese counterpart 天狗 and one distinctive feature is its long nose.)

(Almost at the summit...!)

(2-3 hours later... yay! Except, there were just 2 (small) trees that were standing proudly red in their fall colours. =/ Yikes.)

(Nonetheless, a pretty fall picture =) Tada!)
----
After such extenuating efforts expended on Takaosan, we journeyed back to Tokyo (~45mins train ride) and headed into a random izakaya - Amatarou - in Shinjuku for dinner! Had:

(Deep fried soft bones - either chicken or pork can't quite remember but so yummy!)

(Beef tongue slices, served on heated black pebbles. Yummy too.)

(Left: Tako (octopus) sashimi with wasabi on grated radish. Soooo good.
Right: Deep fried tofu - one set of triplets with shoyu and the other with butter.)

There was another dish of beef slices with onions and poached egg over hotplate. Great accompaniment to our bowl of rice.


(Finally, dessert! Shared a hot bowl of something-choco-banana. Basically sliced bananas, with chocolate syrup, caramel, whipped cream and some sponge-like pieces and a scoop of ice cream - served in a big, hot stone bowl and even the little bowls they gave us were warmed!)

Yum in my tummy and a nice day out at the only natural forested area/moutain in Tokyo. What can I say =)

Sugamo

Wednesday so no class today; instead, went to Sugamo with Rachel and Isabel. Sugamo is perhaps the Harajuku equivalent but for obaasan (old ladies!) and darn, my soul must be pretty old since this is probably the place I like best so far.

Reached Sugamo (巣鴨) station in just about 10 mins (2 stops after Ikebukuro on the JR Yamanote Line) and wandered out to look at the map since none of us thought to bring one or write the directions down. A very helpful old man sitting there happily engaged us in conversation though - or what limited conversation that we could squeak out haha - and very kindly pointed us to the place in question - Jizou Dori (地蔵通り). That totally made my day - nice old people are so happifying!

So why is this place my favourite place thus far?

Because there was no lack of streetside food stalls and so many old people! I like! The atmosphere was certainly different from that in Harajuku, Shinjuku and Kichijoji. There were many stalls set up by the roadside, ranging from thermal underwear, to pajamas and track pants to trinkets, shoes and of course FOOD! Food: not just in the form of cooked streetside food, but even pickles, dried goods, marinated seafood and more. Apparently a flea market only happens on the 4th, 14th and 24th of every month though, but there didn't seem to be any flea market (like the ones I've been to anyway) so perhaps that referred to the ad-hoc structures of these roadside stalls. Permanent shops were mainly selling clothing items, bags, Japanese sweets and shoes for older ladies. One interesting fixture was the prominence of bright red underwear though!

As for the food, I had pancake-shaped okonomiyaki (150yen), 1 custard and 1 cheese filled pancake (100yen each), 1 stick of unagi (300yen), 1 chinese pancake with meat filling (200yen), 1 chicken skin yakitori (130yen), 1 chicken meatball yakitori (130yen) and brought home a box of kiwi berries (400yen) - which are YUM! There was a few more stalls that I could have patronised but my stomach was reaching it's maximum capacity. Besides, we only reached there at about 4pm and stalls started tidying up by 5pm since it gets dark early here. Will certainly be back then! I have to try Japanese sweets some day as well, but probably not anytime soon since honestly they never really look very appetising >.<. Oh and apparently there's a very interesting (but not exactly cheap) souvenir shop as well. And old-lady fashion here is quite cute hehe.

There's a shrine within as well, and it seems to be of a certain significance. Probably will try to read up about this.

I'll be back!

(PS. At the train station, there were SO many posters about Momiji and the places where it blooms and stuff. Now I REALLY REALLY want to go! Raaa! )